Itâs the site where Google had proposed to open one of its Campus startup hubs, but abandoned the plans, announcing this week that the space would go to two social organizations instead.
âThe decision is very positive,â beams Achim Koppitsch, who runs the Heisse Scheiben record store on Ohlauer StraĂe, across from the Umspannwerk.
He's one of the locals who feared having Google in the âKiezâ or neighbourhood would mean more gentrification and rising rents.
With vinyls and CDs lined up neatly at the doorway, and second hand record players, some with âreservedâ slips written on a card and stuck to them, Koppitschâs shop somehow resembles the pushback to a modern technology giant like Google.
âIt (having Google in the Umspannwerk) would have pushed up commercial and private rents,â says Koppitsch from behind the counter.
âThere is an upper limit on private rents, there are regulations,â he explains. âBut there are no regulations on commercial rents, they can be raised without restrictions.â
Born in the south of Germany but a long time Berlin resident, Koppitsch, 60, has lived in an apartment near his shop for 14 years, and operated the store for the same amount of time.
âThe commercial rent in my shop has almost doubled within these 14 years for me,â he says.
âThatâs a problem. One day it will become so expensive that only cafes will be able to pay such high rents.â
First announced in November 2016, the company intended to transform part of the Umspannwerk into a Campus, where start-ups could go through a mentoring program led by the firm.
It would have been its seventh after London, Tel Aviv, Seoul, Madrid, SĂŁo Paulo, and Warsaw.
But, in a turnaround, the company said the site would now go to online donation platform Betterplace and the KARUNA association, which supports children and young people in need.
A changing Kiez
Back in Kreuzberg, two men with their hoods up are smoking a joint on the balcony of the Umspannwerk, which is already home to organizations, including Red Bull music studios.
Photo: CC BySa FuckOfFGoogle.net
Across the road, Ute is cleaning vases in her flower shop Wandelrose. She has an anti-Google poster on the window of the door which leads to a wonderland of plants and flowers.
Echoing Koppitsch, she says: âIt was a good decision. Itâs better if social things come to Kreuzberg and that no more residents get pushed out (because of rents).â
Ute, who also lives on Ohlauer StraĂe, says itâs clear âwhat will change if Google is over thereâ.
âThere are some well known examples of what happens if Google appears somewhere,â she says.
âHere itâs already changed a lot. And in this case there would be even more extreme changes - people get pushed out.â
Kreuzberg has changed in recent years, along with other parts of Berlin that were formerly populated by squat houses and low rents.
Itâs evident in the the number of hipster-style cafes or vegan restaurants, and the amount of people who have moved to the area from outside the city, resulting in landlords or real estate companies forcing up rents.
In the past decade, the average rent on new leases in Berlin has increased by 75 percent, according to recent figures.Â
Yet there is still something about Kreuzberg that refuses to conform. Itâs not shiny, people still leave sofas or other old furniture on the street to be picked up and re-used.Â
Gentrification is happening but, arguably, in a different way to elsewhere and there is resistance, meaning it could be a slower process.
SEE ALSO: Google shelves plans to open Campus in Berlin Kreuzberg
Aside from Google, demonstrations are held almost weekly against the âMietwahnsinnâ - rent madness or insanity.
Locals are feeling the changes. Pauline, 32, who has lived in Kreuzberg near Görlitzer Bahnhof for four years, says the effect of the Campus might already be in force.
âGentrification appears to have accelerated immediately across from what was the potential Google Campus, with the closure of a long established chemist and a thrift shop,â she says.
But Pauline says the âdeath knell for Kreuzberg as we know itâ came long before the Campus saga, which âwould have accelerated gentrification not caused itâ.
She blamed the escalation of rents on holiday let platforms like Airbnb âwhich has taken a significant amount of residential properties out of the marketâ.
Google backdown 'a success'
For the protesters who spent months demonstrating against Google, the campaign was about taking a stand against companies swooping in and causing living costs to shoot up.
Photo: CC BySa FuckOfFGoogle.net
It was also, for some, about what Google as a company stands for. For all of them, Googleâs U-turn is a success.
âItâs a victory because by all accounts Google backed down,â says Larry Pageblank in a cafĂ© on the border of Kreuzberg and Neukölln. âI think we should own it (the success) and be proud of it and keep it in mind for the next steps to come.â
Pageblank, whose alias is a nod to Larry Page, founder of Google, is one of the local residents who got involved with the campaign. The protest group is a mix of groups and individuals, from tech activists to community organizations.
SEE ALSO: Google is coming to Berlin Kreuzberg and locals are far from happy. Here's why
When he joined a meeting last year he was bowled over by the âsuper impressive and diverse mix of peopleâ who were already mobilized to fight.
âThese people ranged from your traditional anti-gentrification organizations, to neighbourhood groups, families, artists, random friends, human rights researchers and hackers,â Pageblank adds.
Pageblank describes the resistance as a âlong lasting structure of a diverse network of peopleâ that managed to hold down a giant.Â
âIn six cities in the world with Google Campus no protest ever emerged,â he adds. âThere was one opposition to the project and it was Berlin in Kreuzberg.â
The self-identifying computer hacker thought he could add his area of expertise to the mix. With the help of other members of the group and friends, they made a website to collate all the information together.
âWe thought in addition to gentrification weâll talk about all the other topics that Google represents to us, and write in English as well as German,â he explains, referencing mass surveillance, censorship, tax evasion and robotics as topics of concern.
Fuck Off Google was born.
Grassroots-led project
Pageblank says the most important thing to take from the campaign is that it was a grassroots project that happened in real life.
âIâm very proud of our website, but most of it happened on the streets and I think thatâs the very fundamental nature of whatâs happened here,â he says.
How did they do it?
The group analyzed the situation to reach an understanding of what was happening with Google in Kreuzberg and beyond, looking at the company's relations with technology, its ethical values and how it operates.Â
âWe dared to dig deep into this complexity,â he says. Â Then there was a varied range of tactics, from âsome graffiti on the streetâ, to undeclared noise demos to official protests. They produced stickers, posters and even produced a German language newspaper called Shitstorm.
They met regularly and took their time to understand and share information. Not everyone had the same political views or backgrounds - and that was okay.
And they had clear goals: âWe didnât want the arrival of unrestricted capitalists speculating on our livelihoods and Silicon Valleyâs copy and paste culture on our neighbourhood,â says Pageblank.
âWe want shared human values and use of technology that is respectful for people'sâ rights instead of capitalizing on them.â
What the Kreuzberg group achieved was through a âlocal human structureâ, he says.
Pageblank says the group doesnât have an objection to start-ups who empower people and âdo free software", something he campaigns for.
Like Ute in the flower shop, whatâs happened with Google elsewhere has been on the mindsâ of locals.
Pageblank says many people from San Francisco - which commentators argue has been damaged by the technology industryâs success and contributed to a housing crisis  - joined the meetings and protests.
âThe life, energy and culture and soul got sucked out of San Francisco with rent increases.
âIt lost the space for freedom and creativity.â
Whatâs so special about Kreuzberg?
Although he acknowledges heâs not a long time resident, Pageblank, who has lived in Berlin two and a half years but known the city much longer, says Kreuzberg is a âbedrock of alternative cultures and experimentation for people outside the expected normsâ.
Photo: CC BySa FuckOfFGoogle.net
âItâs the culture of using spaces between spaces, making a lot, upcycling,â he adds.
However, he says, itâs true that Kreuzberg has been gentrified âand a lot of places have already disappearedâ, with more under threat.
âItâs not one rent here or two rents that increase, itâs a systemic problem,â he adds, pointing to the practice of firms buying up buildings or properties.â
Google: protests don't dictate our actions
Google says their turnaround came from 18 months of speaking to locals and organizations, and they decided, along with Betterplace and KARUNA, to commit the space to social projects.
Ralf Bremer, Google spokesman for Germany, told The Local the firm does ânot allow that unconstructive protests dictate our actionsâ.
âThere are many people in Kreuzberg, who discussed with us, worked with us and shared their ideas with us," he said.
"Those are the people who have contributed to the creation of this new house for social engagement (at Umspannwerk), and we are grateful for their support."
Bremer added that as Berlin residents themselves, they understood the concerns of gentrification âbut that is an issue that we certainly cannot solve as an individual companyâ.
There are âno plansâ for another Campus in Berlin, he added, but Google for Startups will continue working in the capital.
He said the firm wonât move into the Umspannwerk and that Google was confident that âthis house for social engagement will be something for the longer term".
Meanwhile, some local politicians are disappointed by the decision. Free Democrats (FDP) faction leader Sebastian Czaja said the move sends a message to future companies and investors not to come to Berlin "and certainly not to Kreuzberg".Â
Christian GrÀff, economic policy spokesman for the CDU parliamentary group, said it was a "severe setback" for business.
"Berlin's reputation has been badly damaged as a result," he said.
Not over yet
With all this in mind, the Kiez community, or at least some members of it, still plan to monitor what happens next, looking at how the social organizations that move in are related to Google, keeping an eye on other investors coming into the neighbourhood and continuing their campaign efforts for more ethical technology.Â
Pageblank says they are already talking with other activist groups across the world who have seen their protests in action and want to share tactics.
Could this lead to a wider people'sâ revolution against huge technology firms and investors?
âWe want people to think: we can make this colossus tremble,â says Pageblank. âPeople can organize themselves whatever their context and background is.
âWe always said: 'Kreuzberg first, then the world.' Now it's the world.â
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